B, If you are going to be doing any work on the ground, such as cutting up small trees and limbs after they are knocked down, bar length is more important than weight. A small saw with a 16" or 18" bar will have you leaning from the waist to run it and cause serious fatigue and back strain......especially for us geezers the other side of 60.

Get a Stihl or Jonny Red with at least a twenty inch bar and ask the dealer if they can swap the bar out for a 24", with a skip tooth chain so you do not lug the motor.

Mine is a 20" Stihl 362 (I think, without walking out to the shed and looking) nearly twenty years old. My next trip to the farm store WILL include the purchase of that 24 inch bar and skip tooth chain to match.

This is the fastest and easiest way I know to sharpen a chain. A machinist will have little trouble setting angles and proper grind.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Oregon-4...amp;wl12=106023027&wl13=&veh=sem
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A power grinder can eat a bit of metal and shorten the life of your saw chain. But that is not too critical for a fellow who only uses the saw a couple times a year. The pros use only files and a guide to prolong the life of their chain. But when I use a file, the saw begins to cut in circles.

A man has got to know his limitations.

My grinder came from Harbor Freight and cost me $35. It does what I need for around the farm.

If a fellow is not familiar with chain saw operations, and or has begun to lose upper body and arm strength, anti kickback chain and bars are available which will greatly increase the operators safety. I highly recommend both along with safety chaps. They will save a person's life and limbs.

People who choose to brew up their own storms bitch loudest about the rain.