Also......the bigger the engine, the heavier the powerhead. A heavy saw can be tough on us "older" guys backs. I personally like a 20" bar, long enough to take on most trees and provides reach without bending over as far when cutting on the ground or limbing. Depending on the weight of the powerhead, the correct length of bar can "balance" a saw and make it easier on the back.
The pro saws are great, but expensive. A specific recommendation would be a Husky Rancher 455 or the Stihl MS291. Both are 55cc landowner saws and are a good combo of size, weight, and power. Both will handle 20" bars. Both come in at under $500, hopefully even with tax in Kentucky.......
Well said, it's easy to get excited about a big bad powerful saw, but they wear you out. I did most of my cutting for years with an 81cc pro saw, cut like a mofo but my back was sore at the end of the day.
For $500, I'd say $300 saw, $50 for three extra loops of chains, $100 for a chain grinder and $50 for chaps.
If I was mostly limbing and dropping the occasional tree I'd get an echo CS-355T
![[Linked Image]](https://www.echo-usa.com/getattachment/8708b312-83cd-4f50-a39f-2bb9a23ac05c/CS-355T_nocallouts.jpg)
I picked up an echo top handle saw that was worked hard by an arborist and figured it was cheap enough if it bounced out of snowmobile I wouldn't cry the loss. It's now my most used saw and I can't kill it. I wouldn't hesitate to replace it with a new Echo if it ever dies.
The are three things to know about chainsaws:
1) Sharp chain
2) Sharp chain
3) Sharp chain
A 35-40cc saw with a sharp chain will handily outcut a 50-60cc saw with a dull chain all day every day. Put the money into spare chains and the means to keep them sharp. And get just enough saw cut the wood you'll be cutting to keep from wearing yourself out.
