Mathman, you're asking questions I don't know the answer to, at least not yet. I bought this scope mostly to be different from what I have and for target shooting, at distances to be determined, and to maybe learn something about using a FFP, MOA reticle and dialing for distance, that's about all I can offer at the moment.
Gotcha.
What I'm getting at is you may be impressed with what you can do with "only 10x" if the clarity and mechanical reliability are there.
The fact that it's MOA is really neither here or there with respect to the FFP aspect. The reticle is just a ruler. The FFP part means the marks on the the ruler will keep the same spacing relative to the target no matter the magnification. MOA, mils, or dillyfloops, it doesn't matter. What you want is for the scale on the adjustments to be the same as that of the reticle.
Is there a particular reason you chose the MOA scale?
I'll add just a couple of points to this.
In addition to the clarity and mechanical reliability of the scope, the reticle design makes a big difference when it comes to suitability of the scope for LR shooting. The ideal FFP reticle design for most hunters/shooters is to have bold outer bars that extend to about 5 mrad from the center of the scope, and then a very fine center portion with 0.2-0.5 mrad graduated hash marks. I also personally like a floating center dot, but that's largely up to personal preference. How fine the center of the reticle is, i.e., its subtension, will determine how small of a target the reticle will fit within and you can shoot, assuming sufficient magnification and clarity for you to resolve the target.
The other point, is that like mathman said, the units on the ruler don't really matter too much for your own usage, as long as the reticle and turrets match, but if you shoot with other people or plan to spot for other people and have them spot for you, it is also very useful to have common units and speak the same language.
