Thank you for not breaking in that cam at an idle. Too many people make that fatal mistake. But you knew that....:)
As soon as I had the thing spinning the crank under combustion, We were heading for 2500 RPM (as you can see in the first vid)
Then you see me go back to the distributor to pull some timing out (it smooths up right at the end of the vid)
What you don't see after the first vid is I grab the light again and dial in for about 40 degrees BTC all in at 2500. Which is a bit much but I was trying to keep EGT's down because we have brand new ceramic coated headers on her too.
I tell ya, it's a bish doing a break in with new ceramic headers. The cam and the headers both want opposite break ins. The cam wants to go up to 2500 then vary gradually between 2000-3000 for like a half an hour. But the new ceramic coating likes a couple of gradual heat cycles to cure properly.
You're damned either way! lol!
But of course you pick the cam over the header coating. But you can lower your EGT's with more advance and a fat air fuel mixture. So, I went a bit much with the timing and I used the choke plate to fatten the air fuel mix. I rode a fine line with a hint of occasional miss, if I opened the plate any she cleaned up, I just ran her a bit dirty with a little extra advance during the initial run in. It was just enough to save the ceramic and still get my revs so I had good oil delivery while the lifter and cam lobe faces work hardened each other.
All that said, Someday I'll have an engine run stand so it's easier to do break in with a crappy set of manifolds on so I can get the cam break in done first, then get the cooking cycles done the way the header manufacturers want you to do it.
